Mmm, Fontina! That golden cheese from the mountains of the region of Valle d'Aosta. Valle d'Aosta borders France and Switzerland and is the smallest region of Italy. It's home to the highest mountain in the Alps, Monte Bianco, known commonly by its French name, Mont Blanc. No wonder--knowing we're this high up!--that the Valdaostan Italians have sets their standards equally high when it comes to making their famous cheese. Fontina, well known the world over, is made of cow's milk, is semi-pasteurized, and is often melted; enjoyed with bread in fondue, in stews, or in polenta (click here for some traditional recipes). Its status is protected by the European Union and can only be produced in the designated Fontina region of Valle d'Aosta, thereby earning the official Regione Autonoma Valle d'Aosta stamp. Fontina is quite an old cheese. The first written mention of "Fontina" appears in 1270 and the first visual representation (see the picture here) dates back to the fifteenth century, found in the Castello di Issogne. Fontina can be found in many premium supermarkets in the United States. So, what do you say: Valdaostan fondue tonight? Enjoy!

My first name is Nello. You know that already. My last name? That'd be Mozzarella. Nello Mozzarella. What a great name, right?

Ok, ok, so Mozzarella isn't really my last name, but I wouldn't mind if it were. That goes to show how much I love mozzarella, one of Italy's great cheeses. We've all had it, whether on pizza or served alone. Some of the best, known as "mozzarella di bufala," is so good that mid-bite you may shed a tear of joy. Buffalo mozzarella--as we'd say in English, though we often just use its Italian name--earned protected status in Italy and the European Union, meaning the government enforces strict standards of production and, recognizing the cheese's storied history, it has been exempted from certain highly-restrictive EU laws. This "protected" mozzarella is called "mozzarella di bufala campana," where the "campana" refers to the region of Campania in which Buffalo mozzarella was born (so the story goes, though Italians will dispute this!). In the image to the left, you can see all of the production regions now under the protected umbrella.

Why buffalo milk? Buffalo's milk is tastier than cow's milk because if we were, for example, to put both a cow and a buffalo in the same field, have them eat the very same grass, the buffalo would almost certainly produce richer and healthier milk, higher in proteins, minerals, and fats. The result is a softer, more flavorful cheese. Finding mozzarella di bufala in Italy is not difficult, but in the United States it is much more so. First, few people produce it in the United States. Second, since it should be consumed the day it's manufactured, at least within a day or two, it is expensive to ship from Italy and to buy. The key is to find a local producer who holds true to Italian traditions. If you find this person, don't let go. Your life will be better for it. And what to do with mozzarella di bufala? You certainly can serve it over pasta or use on pizza, but I prefer to serve it in an insalata caprese (with tomatoes and basil) to truly appreciate its flavors. You may also enjoy it with prosciutto crudo (cured ham). You'll have to find all of this at your local specialty shop or supermarket. Once you do, don't forget to invite me, Nello Mozzarella, over to share it with you!

Rule one: If you want to keep an Italian kitchen, you must have a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano handy. You do not want the Italian Culinary Police after you, trust me. I once didn't have any and I was incarcerated for a decade under Lack of Italianness Statute 165. The penalty is stiff, so best pick some up. Most of us have had Parmigiano-Reggiano at one point or another. This cheese is so prized in Italy that some banks have accepted as collateral on loans thousands of wheels of the cheese (see the figure to the left), each valued at a minimum of $1,000, though some can reach $3,000. No matter, each slab of this wonderful cow's milk cheese weighs in at a hefty 80 pounds (try grating that). Of course you don't have to keep a wheel at your home, yet a nice chunk will do, which you can pick up at the grocer for around $8 or $10. Even a small piece will last a while, as its flavor is strong and is often grated or shaved for eating cooked or uncooked (see my antipasto recipe for carpaccio di bresaola, for example). Parmigiano-Reggiano's origin and production is protected under strict laws, with each slab undergoing governmental scrutiny before it receives its official mark. The cheese is aged for two years and is produced in Parma (but also the provinces of nearby Bologna and Modena). Careful, don't confuse parmesan with Parmigiano-Reggiano; only P-R has received D.O.C. status in Italy, which means, basically, that the Italians agreed to protect the cheese's origin and rigorous production standards. I remind you, remember rule one. Go out to pick some up, or else you might hear a knock on your door.

I would like to say that the pecorino you see in this picture constitutes my personal stash, but sadly (I'm tearing) it doesn't. I do, however, have some delish-issimo Pecorino Romano, one of the finest D.O.C. cheeses in Italy and quite famous throughout the world, sitting here on my cheese board in the kitchen. I make an effort to enjoy some of it at least once a week, and you should too. Pecorino is made from sheep's milk (pecora means sheep). Unlike Parmigiano-Reggiano, finding pecorino is a tad harder, but if you have a specialty grocer in the area or an Italian "Wow, that looks wonderful" shop nearby, you'll almost certainly find it. Of the D.O.C. varieties, easiest to find are Pecorino Romano and Pecorino Toscano (shown in the picture), with Pecorino Sardo and Pecorino Siciliano being much more difficult. Pecorino is an ancient cheese. In fact, it's so ancient that many Tuscans refer to it as a "cacio," not a "formaggio." While both denote "cheese," "cacio" is the much more ancient term, derived directly from the ancient Latin, whereas "formaggio" was coined in the Middle Ages. Pecorino is fabulously delicious and is used in many Italian recipes, including the famed Italian sauces amatriciana and carbonara. While it's wonderful in recipes, it's also enjoyable when paired with olives, artichokes, or cured meats like prosciutto. And what if you want to savor it with wine? Enjoy your pecorino, the fresh varieties, with a white wine like Vernaccia di San Gimignano or Vermentino di Sardegna, and the ripened varieties with a bold Carmignano, Brunello di Montalcino, or Cannonau di Sardegna.