Certainly Certaldo: Off to Tuscany with Nello's Italy
Already praised 650 years ago by the famous Italian writer Giovanni Boccaccio in his Decameron, the village of Certaldo's cuisine has maintained its excellent reputation over the centuries, ranking it high on Nello's list of Italian “must sees.” Divided into two villages, Alto and Basso, medieval Certaldo is a charming and pristine example of Italian life in beloved Tuscany. In Alto, nestled upon a hilltop, you will find yourself transported centuries back, and will enjoy perhaps the finest food Tuscany has to offer. Interested?
These days, tens of thousands of tourists flood the Tuscan streets of Siena and Florence every day making what was meant to be a relaxing vacation a hectic one. We recommend visiting some lesser known, though equally important, parts of the countryside in order to avoid the crowds while enjoying a taste of the "real" Italy. For those in search of a tranquil vacation in Italy, with dreams of sipping on wine while enjoying a good book, tasting excellent cuisine late into the evening, visiting vineyards, and shopping for cheeses and treasures, Certaldo provides just the perfect backdrop. Off the beaten trail, arrival to Certaldo is a bit more difficult than to other cities, but your effort will be worthwhile as you will be sure to find a taste of authentic Italian life and Tuscan cuisine.
We chose to spend a lovely summer afternoon at Certaldo's finest restaurant: Osteria del Vicario. This outstanding establishment provides outdoor seating with panoramic views of the rolling hills, vast skies, and medieval villages scattered across the countryside. We ate under a veranda, in the shade of flowers; beginning our meal with dry champagne, compliments of the house, and savored just looking over the menu.
Osteria del Vicario, situated in a fourteenth-century building, boasts a reputable list of extraordinary domestic and foreign wines. Do not miss their Vernaccia di San Gimignano, “I Mocali" Riserva 2002. We began our meal with an antipasto of local meats and cheeses, and then moved slowly on to our first course, enjoying homemade gnochetti, beet ravioli, and tagliolini pastas. We followed with a medley of fish and meats: quail, rabbit, and flounder. Each dish was presented with meticulous decorations and with a delectable sauce, braised beans, fresh tomatoes, or crisp potatoes. Dessert? The list is extensive, but we were sure to try their custards, gelato, and fresh-fruit medleys. Each dessert was topped off with a decadent piece of "emblem-chocolate": on it the name Osteria del Vicario. You will never forget the image.
After three sumptuous hours at the table, we finished our meal with huge, satisfied smiles. No words were needed. We then strolled through Certaldo's medieval streets, enjoyed a visit to the beautiful Palazzo Pretorio, historic center of public offices, and while there we tried to decipher the hundreds of medieval insignia adorning the building's walls. Our stroll then led us down a small hill and across town to an equally outstanding panorama of the countryside. As you will quickly understand upon visiting, no one wanted to leave.
Florence? Siena? Sure, but if you have a craving for the truly slow life, are an appreciator of the preciousness of time, be sure to visit this treasure of a town tucked away in the hills. Either catch a train or drive out in a rental car for a visit. If you can't leave once you arrive, don't worry, your family and friends will understand. Certainly Certaldo's stolen your heart.
These days, tens of thousands of tourists flood the Tuscan streets of Siena and Florence every day making what was meant to be a relaxing vacation a hectic one. We recommend visiting some lesser known, though equally important, parts of the countryside in order to avoid the crowds while enjoying a taste of the "real" Italy. For those in search of a tranquil vacation in Italy, with dreams of sipping on wine while enjoying a good book, tasting excellent cuisine late into the evening, visiting vineyards, and shopping for cheeses and treasures, Certaldo provides just the perfect backdrop. Off the beaten trail, arrival to Certaldo is a bit more difficult than to other cities, but your effort will be worthwhile as you will be sure to find a taste of authentic Italian life and Tuscan cuisine.
We chose to spend a lovely summer afternoon at Certaldo's finest restaurant: Osteria del Vicario. This outstanding establishment provides outdoor seating with panoramic views of the rolling hills, vast skies, and medieval villages scattered across the countryside. We ate under a veranda, in the shade of flowers; beginning our meal with dry champagne, compliments of the house, and savored just looking over the menu.
Osteria del Vicario, situated in a fourteenth-century building, boasts a reputable list of extraordinary domestic and foreign wines. Do not miss their Vernaccia di San Gimignano, “I Mocali" Riserva 2002. We began our meal with an antipasto of local meats and cheeses, and then moved slowly on to our first course, enjoying homemade gnochetti, beet ravioli, and tagliolini pastas. We followed with a medley of fish and meats: quail, rabbit, and flounder. Each dish was presented with meticulous decorations and with a delectable sauce, braised beans, fresh tomatoes, or crisp potatoes. Dessert? The list is extensive, but we were sure to try their custards, gelato, and fresh-fruit medleys. Each dessert was topped off with a decadent piece of "emblem-chocolate": on it the name Osteria del Vicario. You will never forget the image.
After three sumptuous hours at the table, we finished our meal with huge, satisfied smiles. No words were needed. We then strolled through Certaldo's medieval streets, enjoyed a visit to the beautiful Palazzo Pretorio, historic center of public offices, and while there we tried to decipher the hundreds of medieval insignia adorning the building's walls. Our stroll then led us down a small hill and across town to an equally outstanding panorama of the countryside. As you will quickly understand upon visiting, no one wanted to leave.
Florence? Siena? Sure, but if you have a craving for the truly slow life, are an appreciator of the preciousness of time, be sure to visit this treasure of a town tucked away in the hills. Either catch a train or drive out in a rental car for a visit. If you can't leave once you arrive, don't worry, your family and friends will understand. Certainly Certaldo's stolen your heart.
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